R.I. ART

Coming up here I had little time to prepare for the art that I’ve seen. Often times, through the day, carvers and handcrafters arrive at the health centre to sell their wares. The receptionist is heard over the intercom…carvers are here…mitts for sale front desk. Everything arrives in stages from fired pots, stone carvings, mitts and dolls.

His name is Sam Gusak but you may have met him by his signed name “Yvo” . Sam brought in two large pots, one decorated with faces and the other creatures of the sea. I thought we were into a mud wrestling scenario in the front lobby as two women were more than interested. I took his photo and looked over the booty.

I also met Kelly there. He’s from Baffin. He’s a carver. He gets his soapstone from the local coop. What he does with it is something else again.When I first met him he showed me a mask that he had done, dark black stone with a menacing stare. It was a wall hanging. Very nicely polished and finished. He looked disappointed when I told him that walls at home were mostly covered and I had little space left to hang things. It was a neat piece of work but I really couldn’t take it from him.

Not to be outdone, he arrived two nights later to my apartment. Many carvers stop by since they know many of the people staying in the Barn are “short termers”. Some people ignore the faint knocks at night, but this is new to me. I am curious so I open the door. I introduce myself as they tell me what they have to sell. You have to remember that many of the locals don’t lock their doors here, no one knocks and you are expected to walk in before you knock. So with some reluctance, I feel safe.

Kelly is there carrying another mask carving in his hand, signed and dated. It’s quite nice again dark stone with open nostrils and mouth and eyes. He tells me it took him a full day to make this one. He has a twist with this shaman mask though. This one stands on its own.

He just reduced my reason for not buying. Him, his girlfriend and daughter all live here year round. Originally from Pond Inlet he tells me he’s been in Rankin for about 9 years now. We talk price. I don’t haggle, his work is top notch in my limited opinion. I’ll know later when I show one of the “short termers that stayed” if I got a good deal. Before he heads out into the night, I ask if I can take his photo. He agrees. We do it.

I show the piece around and the general consensus is that it’s unique since no one has seen a self standing mask before, the quality of stone is good and the carving is finished nicely. I’ve got a good deal.

Two nights later, Kelly arrives again. In his hand is….another mask. I can still smell the grindstone burning smell. This one has taken another day plus to finish. This time the mask has a similar shaman theme but on angle with a “phantom of the opera” type side style. Again, it stands on its own. We talk. We deal. I tell him no more. I can’t carry anything more in my luggage. We both laugh. For me it’s true. For him it may mean the difference of food on his table.

The caribou antler carvers have also arrived. One knows me by name having been in for xrays. The cold wind is blowing outside and I invite her inside to warm, even though I really don’t like this particular carving. I tell her no and she tells me a sob story. I offer her coffee. From the kitchen, I ask how she likes it….eight sugars she says…I tell her four is the max is this house. And then start to heat it in the microwave. She tells me she wants it cold. The hot liquid will cause her to sweat and later I realize that could be fatal in this cold. She takes four quick gulps and then is off in the night, to other doors…for possible sales.

The Layered Look

The heavy winds and blowing snow provide great timing to reinforce the importance of layering. For those of you who are wondering if I’ve been cold here in R.I., the answer is yes and no. The only cold you feel is on your face when the wind is blowing in toward you. At your back it’s much better. The inside of your nose feels dry from breathing in the extraordinary (for southern Ontario anyway) cold air.

The facemask and balaclava have helped. That old OPP winter hat has worked out perfectly though, thank you Ontario. The double set of glove/mitts have been replaced with local issue that are much warmer. The others were fine but these are quicker on and off. I’ll have to keep a spot in the freezer for them this spring. My Sorrel boots have kept my feet warmer than anything I ever have owned. It was only after being here that I noticed that my snow overpants were Sorrel as well and those I had bought for working the golf course in late November.

The goose down coat has blocked the wind and kept me warm. There are those coming into the health centre that sport seal skin coats. The colours are most interesting as well. The back of the seal is a different colour from the underbelly and so both sides can create some interesting effects.

If you’ve been following this blog, I showed earlier the famous Amoti and how they are used. But the most amazing thing that these coats are all hand made here. The attention to detail is quite phenomenal. The piping and embroidery are exquisite. The kids coats are the same and appliqués adorn them as well. There are some very talented folks in this area with a sewing machine. The materials are available locally at the hardware store. I do not know who repairs them when they break but someone must. They are very resourceful here.

It took me a while to realize that those kid’s coat were also handmade. The ribbons of colour and decals are applied, I believe, so that people can recognize their kids by their coats individualized at home. Some coats even sport special autographs. There is a certain red coat in town that has the front shoulder panel signed by that famous numero 22, currently with Nashville Predators of NHL and wearing number 55 who returns to this hamlet every so often..

The hoods and cuffs are often trimmed with fur. Arctic fox and arctic hare (in winter) are the favourites for women since they are pure white and fluffy. With the hood raised an area of warmth is created in front of the face from the exhalation of that person’s breath. The fur causes the wind to swirl within the facial area. So now you are breathing in warmed air, much better for the airway and the lungs as well.

The down side of all this is the same as for the skills our forefathers possessed. The elders of the community seem to be the ones performing the talented tasks, This is changing though as seen in the arctic college brochures. There are new programs teaching about the old ways. The big question is who will be teaching those ways in 20 years or more.

These Boots Were Made…

...for walking and that’s just what they do. But, they do it so beautifully. From the first day at the health centre through to this week’s blizzard, you can see the importance of proper winter weather wear. Tomorrow it’s coats, but today, it’s footwear. I’ve taken some time to post a few shots of the various boots that I’ve seen and people have allowed me to shoot. Thanks to all for your input.

My scheduled time here in RI is fast coming to a close. Sunday, I’m supposed to leave at 9:00 with arrival at home sometime in the wee hours of Monday morning. The long range forecast shows sunny weather for the weekend, but only time will tell. Winds (max. plus 60 kph) and blowing snow had commercial flights yesterday and medivac flights the night before, diverted and cancelled but the storm has moved on and so should this story.

Many of the female staff wear their “boots” proudly. Various furs, intricately sewn together for various designs are display on feet upon arrival in the morning. Noon and five o’clock show the same parade. There are seal, beaver and the others. Susie, for example, has two pairs. One set are her Baffin Boots as she told me while the others are her West Coasters as I call them since we are on this side of the Hudson’s Bay.

Storage in the south for these boots presents a problem. You have to keep them cold for them to retain their flexibility. They will dry out especially the way we heat our houses in winter. Most people wouldn’t store these boots in the freezer or fridge but that’s exactly what you need to do. In this dry climate, they seem to remain flexible despite the summer heat but that is such a short period during the year.

The younger generations do not have the skills needed to put these things together. Like those our grandparents once possessed, we have lost the talents so necessary to survive and flourish. Once the animal skins have been harvested, they must be prepared. They are cleaned, stretched and blocked to dry. Then the must be worked to be made supple. The selection of skins is as important as is how they are cut, trimmed, and assembled.
And after they are put together and the stitching is completed, how they look is only important to the tourists. Well, yes, the look is important. Here, however, function is the guide. Furs here are part of the culture. Their warmth surpasses synthetics hands down. Fur mitts are warm and toasty even in the most bitter winter winds. During this past few days of blowing snow and bitter winds, I’m glad I’ve had my hands inside a couple of beaver ones.

AN ARCTIC BLOW

Last week, Environment Canada (those guys that only have to be right 40% of the time, I’m told) issued a blizzard alert but I didn’t think it was bad. I had been here five days. Eventually, the sun came out, the howling winds were less so and we had four nice days. Late Tuesday night, it was supposed to come. You could hear the wind. Off and on, it roared during the night. Would we be snowed out at work?

By morning I was showered, lunch made and ready to leave for the health centre. I never made it. In that blowing snow, fresh and dry, dropped the day before…someone was out there. It just wasn’t me. Our lights flickered twice and the telephone rang once. No one was on the line. A few minutes later our rooms, still warm, were bathed in darkness.

I went to my laptop case and found my penlight flashlight, made my way across the dark room and looked out. The familiar neighbourhood of my past two weeks was gone. You could see nothing. Looking left I saw a glimmer of light in the old health centre which is literally a stone’s throw across the parking area. Emergency power, they had it, would we have lights soon?

The neighbour called on the phone. We had communications! Did we get the message the health centre is closed due to storm today? No, but we figured that might have been the ring on the phone about 20 minutes ago. The neighbour on the other side invited us over since she had candles lit and coffee made. We took our mugs and went through the connecting back door entrance and climbed the stairs. The penlight was no longer needed.

Awash in light and with a varying assortment of scenting, we sat down and talked. The lights flickered, tried to stay on again and then they did. We had power just as the dawn was breaking. The south-facing roof-top windows were able to deliver the available light of the day, but it wasn’t needed now. It might be later.

We adjusted the VCR/DVD combo unit, sorted our fine collection of three movies, put fresh coffee in the maker and waited out the storm. The radiophone crackled in the corner as we waited during each interchange…nurse on call to patient in need.

No work today, we might as well relax and enjoy our movie. The choices were: The Perfect Storm, 300 or the remake of the Shaggy Dog. Sometime later, I’ll let you know what we watched.

Friends by storm and oblivious to the outside weather, we nursed our coffees, watched our movie and prepared for the noon hour call to see our revised status.

Update:
The winds continued all day and night.
Thursday: the winds have increased to 60 to 80 kph and the phone just rang…no work today either. Update at noon…2 movies to go. At least I still have two packets of popcorn.

Further Update: It’s now Saturday. The health center has been closed except for emergencies since Tuesday. Even the RCMP were stuck yesterday for a while. The front end loader had cleared our parking lot (one sweep each time) once per day. The oil truck stopped by yesterday to top us up. The wind has not stopped howling. Sometimes, its slows a bit but then comes back with a vengance. This was supposed to stop Friday then today and it now appears that Monday may be sunny. Too late for my flights. I had written some bogs in advance but have not been able to upload them. Enjoy and we will keep you posted. The video below will give you a sample. IT WILL TAKE TIME TO LOAD

5 Animal Taste Sensation

There is no denying the health problems in these communities. Everything from diabetes to RSV, mental and physical health, public health concerns and the private concerns of individuals, these are everyday events here in Rankin Inlet. They are in other places too, but here the resources seem stretched.

Everywhere Diabetes is one of the most rapidly increasing diseases. It’s a concern in the south, but up here, with the constant deluge of media advertising, it’s much worse since people are inside more in the bad weather. The cost of canned pop is high here, but so is the demand. Dental care is sadly lacking for many Inuit since the introduction of sugar into their diets. Some of the elders have fewer teeth than those damaged gears in my processor rack.

Smoking, and its link to health problems, is even tougher. Many of the staff, here at the health centre, take a smoke break. They dress for the cold weather and a few minutes later, they return. The “Imouti” (those lovely coats with the built in baby carriers) provide a safe haven for the child but become a chimney if the wearer is also a smoker. The exhaled smoke can hang directly above the infant. Vehicle windows are always closed so everyone in the car is always breathing the same air. Respiratory disease is something that will also increase in the future.

Pamphlets and brochures are available and written in both Inuktitut and English. Everything from spousal abuse, prescription drug dependency, colorectal cancer, Hepatitis A and B, coping with loss, smoking while pregnant, family violence, conflict resolution and post traumatic stress are all topics that are available in printed matter. Free condom machines are at the centre, but I just realized I never tried the machine to see if they are ready for dispensing.

Posters and flyers are everywhere, anything from increasing your awareness in hand washing to the various diseases especially RSV here in young kids. So important is this that the posters have overshadowed the large poster of local NHL star Jordin TooToo in our main waiting area.

On the sexual front, teenage pregnancy and std’s are commonplace like many communities. Prevention and education are at the forefront of the war on health risk reduction. In the north, they have found novel ways to encourage that the message gets across.

The most novel approach that I’ve seen though, is the five flavours as shown above and their slogans. The five animals shown are familiar to anyone raised in the north. The Muskox, Char, Caribou, Seal and Muktaaq (whale) are known to anyone locally. That The Canadian Inuit HIV/Aids Network would incorporate them into a program about disease and aids prevention is uncanny. Each of the “5” is printed on cardboard that when folded becomes a holder for a condom. “BRILLIANT!” as the Guiness guys would say. These were handed out at the Arctic Games…the condom holders not the beers.

Change won’t happen overnight and attitudes take time to adjust with everyone. The internet and the access to all the satellite and cable channels continue to affect people’s health here, both positively but many times negatively. There are gyms to workout here in town. Many people walk everywhere as well. The outcome of future generations will continue to evolve. What it will be like here in RI, G.O.K. (God Only Knows).

Waiting in Line...Patiently

There is a sense of patience here in Rankin Inlet. People here have places to go but they just take their time getting there. It takes you ten minutes to finish dressing for a ten minute walk and then another few minutes to undo what you just did, before you did it. There is also some confusion at times. Not sure if it’s language or what but the thermostat photo shows the results. After two service calls the correct temperature range and the lower/higher thermostat was functional.

There are four way stop intersections that are only busy at five o’clock when all the government buildings empty. They may also be busy at 12 noon when everyone heads home for lunch but this is only conjecture since I stay in for lunch. I’ve seen those short school buses and the kids get dropped off for lunch and picked up again after for their afternoon classes. There are no other bus services but there are two taxi services in town. One is Silu`s and we just the last four digits. 645 is the exchange and you can get his number from information if you need it.

There is no stoplight here and many times people slow for the 4 way stop signs and then creep along. Often times they are accompanied by snowmobiles or four wheel “quads”. The roads are not plowed by plows on trucks. I haven’t seen any in town since I got here. There are some at the airport, I was told, and also a sweeper. Plows couldn’t handle it.

The streets are snow covered and not scraped down to the pavement. Is it pavement or gravel? I’ll have to ask. Instead, front end loaders continue to rearrange the snow piled along buildings, in parking lots and on the streets. It blows in. They remove it. I’m told the snow really starts to build up the end of march and in april. They tell me I should come back then. I smile.

This can be nasty weather especially when the winds blow like last week andf aginn with fresh snow this morning..gusts to 74 kmph. People take their time to bundle themselves and their kids before they head out into the weather for schools, stores or appointments. It’s cold here but the daylight hours have increased. I have adjusted to not wearing my facemask unless walking a distance. I carry it with me, though, just in case. It still takes you time to get ready.

You see cars sitting and idling away with no one in sight, in driveways and parking lots. They are plugged in at night so the oil is thin enough to allow them some cranking power in the a.m. Everyone carries an extension cord with them in their vehicle. Remote control starting is a big thing here, so you can have your car started with some heat by the time you go out. The gas station is out of town over on another hill. Theses four wheel drive SUV’s take about $80.00 to fill up.

It costs anywhere from $1800 to $2800 to ship a vehicle here. They usually come from Montreal on the barges or in containers. Factory trained warranty work is available. Parts are flown in as required. Every once and a while there are dealers who show up with some brochures and sell a few and next spring your car arrives. Don’t know if the “don’t pay a cent events” count here.

You don’t see rust and decay on the vehicles. On a warm -23 C day here in Rankin Inlet there are no lineups to get your vehicle “looking new”. There are no carwashes open this time of year. You notice that there is no salt stains on peoples clothing, boots, cars, or floorings. It’s too cold for it to work. They did spread some gravel on the parking lot of the health centre yesterday. If I had known, I would have been out there taking pictures.

Larry the Cable Guy

Larry the Cable guy hales from others parts, y’all. We are in the north, but more accurately in the south of the north. If you search Google Earth, and see where Rankin Inlet is located. Then checkout Iqaluit in Nunavut and Yellowknife in the Northwest Territories and you see where you see where we sit. We sit here without our full cable service.

The Health Centre serves the communities of Rankin Inlet, Repulse Bay, Whale Cove, Arviat, Chesterfield Inlet, Coral Harbour, Baker Lake, and Sanikiluaq a slight bit across the bay. The local Cable service runs out of the Co-Op and with the cold weather of last week, well, water and cold weather turn icy and the results were last Monday night we had no football on TV nor cable service of any kind.

During the week this changed as we started to see more and more channels restored. My roommate saw someone on Friday at the top of a pole. I asked if he was Larry’s cousin or brother or if he was there looking good to everyone who went by thinking that he actually was working on the problem. He might have been thinking about the telephone guy and the polar bear story, not doing anything but simply enjoying the milder weather.

Weekend NFL playoff football…it might be available. Saturday I couldn’t find it on the tube. I normally watch the US networks. I have a TV tower, rotor and 18 year old antenna at home. I’m not used to cable. I get the HD signals OTA (over the air) as they say.

Sunday afternoon my brother called and during conversation he told me TSN would be showing the Giants Cowboys game…and they did. CTV had broadcast the earlier game but that channel hadn’t been restored either. Well scouting around town yesterday, I saw why Larry’s cousin, brother, uncle or whoever was not in that much of a hurry to fix the problem. I wish I had called their service number but it would have rang and rang and rang. They were all home watching the games.

Arctic Chill

There was a town meeting on Saturday at 2. I didn’t go since I was out on the tundra and I haven’t been listening to the local radio station for my news like most in this hamlet. It was held at the local catholic church, since it is the largest in town, but it was an Anglican service. It was the funeral for our young friend of Wednesday evening.

I met him only once, as the paramedics brought him through the door applying chest compressions that in time had proved in vain. The team of professionals had tried their best but this time they came up short. In his mid teens, his life now over, the process of a family and their community handling the aftermath had begun.

We have a morgue in our building. It’s located at the back door right next to the staff entrance. I hadn’t been toured that area but suddenly I was there. The nurses serve as morgue attendants and act as funeral directors communicating between the families and the local clergy. It’s that part of the job description, we all know, that says “Other duties: From time to time, etc.”

Once the news has been relayed to the family, the same emotions occur in the north. Sudden loss and the emptiness that it brings is the same no matter what the culture. Often times the family will stay for a while before heading home and return to the health centre again for viewing before the service. The family receives their condolences at home from family, friends and their community neighbours. Food is brought and memories are shared. Grief knows no boundaries.

A casket is brought in and the loved one is placed therein. I was called in to the health centre on saturday to do three patients (It’s nice here that sometimes everyone comes in at the same time). The nurses asked me if I’d help lift the coffin for placement before the family arrives for their final viewing before church. It’s the least I can do. Once completed, the casket will be transported by fire department vehicle to the church and then to the local cemetery following the service.

Whether by choice or by duty I noticed that one of the paramedics who brought him into emerg on Wednesday is taking him to the church on Saturday. Such are the roles in a small community and I’m sure that this same scenario is played out across the world and not just in the north.

Saturday was a beautiful cold clear and sunny day, a nice day for a funeral. Sunday was even nicer. I went for a walk around town on Sunday. I was getting quite brave in my travels. I got some great photos of the snow and ice and the Inuksuk looking out over the Rankin Inlet from his perch near Lake Wilcox in the middle of town. I went down some streets and around a few corners and came upon a road leading to a hill that I thought would give me different shots with a height advantage.

I climbed the road and found myself approaching the cemetery. The crosses mark the graves with names and dates. There is a fence around it. In the snow you could see that it was metal. And at each post there is a steel heart welded on. It looks like it been there a while but it’s built strong atop the wind blown hill. It has to be. I look over and see tracks…dirt, tires, footprints and rabbits. I realize that the grave would be here and should be the newest.

I look around and find it and travel towards it. I stop and pay my respects. I notice how the grave is circled by rocks like so many others and I now have to ask someone what this means. His name and dates of birth and death are freshly applied to the cross. I assume it’s wood painted white but I don’t go nearer to find out. I leave and travel down a big hill at the back of the cemetery. It’s a cold place. On this sunny bright day, I know I will not be the last visitor today.